Art of making shoes



Feb. 27, 1940. c. H. DANIELS ART OF MAKING SHOES Filed Aug. 25, 1934 2Sheets-Sheet 1 Feb. 27, 1940.. c. H. DANIELS ART OF MAKING SHOES FiledAug. 25. 1934 2 Sha ts-Sheet 2 Patented Feb. 27, 1940 UNITED STATESPATENT OFFICE chuiffsflmlffl'flm Application AW 25, 1934, Serial N0.741,371

1"Claim.

This invention relates generally to shoes, and particularly to a toeconstruction for perforated shoes and the process of making the same.

In shoes of the perforated type wherein openings are provided in the tipof the shoe, or in the region usually occupied by the toe stiffener, ithas heretofore been the practice to secure together by adhesive, orotherwise, the vamp, vamp lining and toe stiffener which'are thensimultaneously perforated in the desired manner, the openings extendingentirely through the three layers so as to provide a ventilated toe.Although such procedure is perhaps the most satisfactory and convenientone for general purposes, there are, nevertheless, some instanceswherein that procedure does not conveniently fit into the manufacturingpractice. For instance, in the practice hereinafter more fully describedwherein a sheet of upper material, such as calf skin, of substantialsize is perforated before being cut up into sections of upper materialaccording to patterns, it is apparent that the procedure above referredto may be advantageously modified. Accordingly, it is an object of thepresent invention .to provide a process of making perforated shoeswherein pre-perforated, or open-work material may be employed as one ofthe layers of an assembly comprising a vamp, toe stiffener and lining,while the other two layers may be conveniently perforated together.

Another object of this invention is to provide a process of making shoesof the ventilated type wherein the openings in separately perforatedlayers may be readily alined.

A further object of this invention is to provide a process of makingventilated shoes wherein the sections of upper material are cut frompreperforated material so that the perforations in the respective uppersections extend overboard.

A further object of this invention is.to provide a toe construction forperforated or openwork shoes wherein a relatively'stiff toe may beconveniently provided.

A more specific object of this invention is to provide a process ofmaking perforated or openwork shoes wherein one or more of the layers ofmaterial may be perforated separately'from the others, and readilyarranged with the other layers so that substantially all the openingswill be in at least partial alinement.

Other objects will become apparent to those skilled in the art when thefollowing description is read in connection with the accompanyingdrawings, in which:

Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 are perspective views diagrammaticallyillustrating the procedure in accordance with one embodiment of thepresent invention;

Figures 5, 6, '7 and 8 are similar views diagrammatically illustratingthe procedure in accord ance with another embodiment of the invention;

Figures 9, 10, 11 and 12 diagrammatically illustrate the procedure inaccordance with another embodiment of the invention;

Figure 13 is a"p1an view of a pre-perforated 10 toe stiffener suitablefor use in the embodiment illustrated by Figures 9 to 12 inclusive;

Figure 14 is a view illustrating the final step of a modified procedureotherwise the same as that shown in Figures 9, 10 and 11;

Figure 15 is a view showing the arrangement of vamp and lining whereinthe perforated vamp terminates at about the tip line;

Figure 16 is a plan view of a toe stiffener employed with the vamp shownin Figure 15;

Figure 17 is a plan view of a toe cap which may be employed inconnection with the embodiment shown in Figure 15;

Figure 18 is a view showing the parts of Figures 15, 16, and 17 insuperposed relation;

Figures 19, 20 and 21 are illustrative of another embodiment wherein thetoe stiffener is applied to the exterior of the vamp.

Figure 22 illustrates a modification of the latter procedure wherein aperforated toe cap is employed.

Figure 23 is a perspective view partly broken away and illustrating theforepart of a shoe constructed in accordance with the embodiment ofFigures 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Figure 24 is a perspective view illustrating a shoe constructed inaccordance with the embodiment shown in Figures 15 and 18;

Figure 25 is a perspective view of the forepart of a shoe showing theconstruction illustrated in Figures 19, 20 and 21.

Figure 26 is a perspective view showing a sheet of upper material andbacking such as a lining to be perforated in accordance with the presentinvention.

Figure 27 illustrates the sheet of upper material of Figure 26 afterbeing perforated and indicates by outline the manner in which the uppersections may be cut therefrom.

Figure 28 is a perspective view of a board arranged to facilitatealinement of the perforations of several layers.

Figure 29 is a view of the forepart of a shoe wherein an open-workfabric lining is employed.

In accordance with the present invention generally stated, the toe partof a shoe which comprises generally a vanip, lining and toe stiffenermay be perforated'through and through to produce a ventilated shoe. Thepresent invention contemplates a procedure wherein one or more of thelayers mentioned may be separately perforated and thereafter alined withthe openings which have been formed in the other layer or layers. Inaccordance with the present invention, and particularly when it isdesired that substantially all the openings should 'be in at leastpartial alinement, such alinement may be conveniently accomplished bypunching smaller holes in the outside layer than are punched in one ofthe layers beneath. For instance, if the vamp and vamp lining aresecured together so as to form corresponding openings in each layer, orif they are formed from layers of pre-perforated or open-work materialhaving openings of substantially the same size and in alinement, a toestiffener provided with openings arranged in substantially the samemanner but of larger size than those in the vamp may be readily appliedto the assembly so that the holes will more or less aline themselves. Ofcourse, the holes in the separately applied layer, such as the toestiffener, may be of the same size as the holes in the other layers, butin this case more care must be taken in alining the openings. In thelatter case two or more pins or pegs may be set in a board so as to fitcertain perforations of one layer and expedite the alinement ofcorresponding perforations of another layer therewith.

Moreover, by inserting the toe stiffener subsequently to the assembly ofthe vamp and lining, it is possible to treat the stiffener in suchmanner that it will set up to form a stifier toe than would otherwise bepossible. For instance, if the perforated vamp, vamp lining and toestiffener be so assembled that a surface of the toe stiffener is readilyexposed, this surface may be treated by a suitable stiffening agent,such for instance as shellac, or even wetted up so that after lastingthe stiffener will conform itself more or less rigidly to the shape ofthe last.

Referring now to the drawings, and particularly to Figures 1, 2, 3, 4and 23, an embodiment is illustrated wherein a vamp lining I may have atoe stiffener 2 connected thereto as by adhesive, or otherwise, andthese two joined layers may then be simultaneously perforated with oneor more openings, such as 3 as shown in Figure 2. With the perforatedlining and toe stiffener may be assembled a pre-perforated vamp 4, asshown in Figure 3, which in the embodiment as illustrated is providedwith openings 5 of similar arrangement, but of smaller size, to theopenings in the vamp lining and toe stiffener and 2. The perforated vamp4 may be superposed upon the perforated lining and toe stiffener, asshown in Figure 4. and with little difficulty substantially all of theopenings 3 may be caused to aline themselves partially, at least, withthe openings 5 in the outside layer. These three layers may be connectedtogether as by adhesive or stitching,

or may be lasted without permanent general adhesion, the difference inthe size of the openings allowing for some displacement during thecourse of manufacture. It is ordinarily more practical, however, tosecure the respective layers together, at least temporarily, so as toprevent extreme displacement between the layers.

In order to facilitate alinement of the perforations in the respectivelayers, a board 60 shown in Figure 28 may be provided with two or morepins or pegs such as BI, 82 and 63 which project above the surfacethereof and are arranged to fit the openings in one layer, for instance,the

lining 3. When corresponding openings 64, 85

and 66 of vamp 4 are placed over pins BI, 62

and 63 respectively, the parts will be properly alined and may becemented together in that relation.

Referring now to Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8, another embodiment isillustrated wherein the toe still.- ener |2 may be secured by adhesive,or otherwise to the underside of an outside vamp section l3.

The layers I2 and I3 may then be simultaneously perforated to produceone or more openings l4,

as shown in Figure 6. With the perforated vampand toe stiifener may thenbe assembled a preperforated vamp lining II in which the perforations l5are, in the embodiment illustrated, of substantially larger size, but ofsimilar arrangement to the openings 4. These layers may besuper-imposed, as illustrated in Figure 8, the larger openings l5 beingreadily alined with the smaller openings l4 in the outside layer.pointed out in connection with the previous em-v bodiment, the holes inthe lower layer may be of substantially the same size as the holes inthe outer layer, but for convenience in assembling, and particularlywhen it is desired that substantially all the holes should be in atleast partial alinement, the larger holes may be provided inthe lowerlayer. It will be understood, of course, in lieu of thepre-perforatedlining a suitable open-work fabric may be employed, but inthis case when it is desired that the ventilated openings beunobstructed, care should be taken to select a fabric, the openings ofwhich correspond to the arrangement of the perforations" applied to theunderstide of an outside vamp section 24 and these two layers may beassembled so that the tip portionsthereof may be readily separated, asshown in Figure 10. This assembly may then be perforated with one ormore openings 25, as shown in Figure 11, the tip portions as illustratedbeing readily separable since, as mentioned above, the adhesive 26 neednot extend forwardly of the tip line. A preperforated toe stiifener 22having a series of openings 23 of larger size and arranged in the samemanner as openings 25 may then be inserted between the readily separabletip portions of vamp 24 and lining 2| so that the openings readily alinethemselves. The toe stiffener 22 may be secured between the vamp 24 andlining 2| by any suitable means as by stitching, or by coating one ormore surfaces of the adjacent layers with an adhesive. and pressingtogether in a manner familiar to those skilled in the art.

In carrying out the invention, as just described, the toe stiffener 22may be inserted between the lining 2| and the vamp 24 and secured tothese layers in the region of the .tip line 21 by a line of stitching orby a narrow film of adhesive so that the surfaces of the toe stiffener22 may be exposed as shown in Figure 14. g In this manner the toestiffener may be treated without injuriously affecting the outside vampor lining. With this arrangement it becomes possible to wet up the toestiflener in a manner familiar to those skilled in the art,

and last it in temper so that it may set to form a stiffer toeconstruction than would otherwise be obtained. Alternatively a suitablestiffening agent, such for instance'as shellac, may be applied to one orboth surfaces of the toe stiffener 22 so as to produce a stiffer toe. Itmay be pointed out that the toe stiffener 22 may be joined throughout,as by adhesive, to one or theother of layers 2| or 24 and that thestiffening treatment may still be applied so long as at least onesurface of the stiffener 22 is accessible.

Referring now particularly to Figures 15 to 18 inclusive, after the vamplining 2| has been secured to a vamp 24 as described in connection withFigures 9 and 10, the vamp may be cutoff along the tip line 21 so as toproduce a terminal portion 28, as shown in Figure 17, which later is tobe used as a toe cap. The assembly of lining 2| with the cutoff vamp 24may then be perforated to produce openings 25 therein. The tip portion28 having been removed from vamp 24 prior to perforation of the latter,however,

will remain imperforate, as shown in Figure 1'7.

The tip portion 28 may then be connected with the forwardly extendingportion of the vamp lining 2| to form an imperforate toe cap. In doingso the rear edge of the tip portion 28 may be skived and folded in amanner familiar to those skilled in the art and may be secured at thetip line to the vamp 24 as by stitching or otherwise. .As an alternativeform the rear edge of tip portion 28 may be connected to the adjacentparts by a strip 29 stitched, or otherwise suitablysecured in position.With this construction, it will be understood, that a toe stiffener 38,which may be imperforate, may be inserted at any desired point in theoperation and handled in the usual manner.

Referring now to Figures 19, 20 and 21, a vamp lining 3| may be securedby general adhesion to a vamp 34 and these simultaneously perforatedwith a series of openings 35. In accordance with this embodiment the toestiffener may be applied to the exterior of the vamp in the form of aseparate toe cap 38 to produce a shoe wherein a full perforated vampwhich is convenient to manufacture extends to the tip of the shoe and isoverlaid by an imperforate separate toe cap 38. In order to produce aconstruction having a considerable stiffness, a film of stiffeningagent, such as shellac, or a suitable plastic capable of hardening maybe applied to the'tip portion of vamp 34 such as at 36. This in factconverts the tip portion of the vamp into a toe stiffener and it will beunderstood that the grain of the leather in this region may be roughenedas by sanding in order to permit the stiffening solution to penetrate.This, of course,

would mar the appearance of the vamp if it were not to be covered by atoe cap 38 which, as shown in Figure 25, produces a shoe which is ofexcellent appearance and good construction. It will be understood, ofcourse, that the rear edge of the toe cap 38 may be skived and folded ormay be connected to the adjacent vamp through a strip 39 secured bystitching, or otherwise to the adjacent materials.

, It will be understood that the same features of construction may becarried out in connection with a perforate toe cap, as shown at 48 inFigure 22, which otherwise corresponds to the procedure just described.The toe cap 48 may, if desired be punched separately from the vamp 34and lining 3|. In this case it may be pointed out that the openings inthe toe cap may be somewhat larger than the openings in the lowerlayers, particularly in shoes of the type wherein, for decoratingpurposes, it is desirable that some of the layer beneath be made visiblethrough some of the larger openings above.

In Figure 29 is illustrated a shoe having an o en-work fabric liningwherein the vamp and toe stiffener have been assembled and perforated asdescribed with reference to Figures 5 and 6, but it will be understoodthat the openwork fabric lining may be employed in the other embodimentsas well. In this case an open-work fabric 55 may be selected wherein theopenings 58 are of substantially the same arrangement as theperforations in the vamp so that alinement may be readily accomplished.

In Figures 26 and 2'7 there is illustrated a convenient procedure forproviding pre-perforated vamps, linings and the like. In accordance withthis procedure a sheet of material of substantial size may be perforatedwith a series of apertures, as is illustrated in Figure 27, and fromthis pre-perforated sheet the upper sections, whether vamps, quarters,panels, or otherwise, may be cut to provide pre-perforated sections, andit is to upper materials produced in this manner that the features ofthe present invention find a particular applicability. As illustrated inFigure 26, a sheet 58 of upper material which may be, for instanceleather, may be backed with a sheet of lining material 5| which maylikewise be leather, or suitable fabric such as rubberized fabric sothat it will stand the perforation, and be permanently, orsemi-permanently, attached to the upper material 58 as by spots ofadhesive 52. When the material is to be used in connection with someembodiment of the present invention, such as that illustrated in Figures19, 20 and 21, the lining layer may be permanently adhered to the layer58, but when it is desired to separate the two layers in order to inserta toe stiffener, such as would be the case in the embodiment describedin connection with Figures 9 to 12 inclusive, it is apparent that theadhesion should be of a semipermanent nature. With the layers 58 and 5|thus connected together the sheet may be run through a suitableperforating machine to punch the material in any desired manner, toprovide a series of apertures 53. From the sheet punched in this mannerthe upper sections, such as Vamps 54, may then be out. It will.beunderstood, of course, that this mode of procedure may be practiced uponsheets of upper material without backing and on sheets of liningmaterial without the upper material, or a sheet of stiffening material,such as fabric which may be heavy drill, or rubberized fabric, may beinterposed between the lining and outside layer if desired, so'that allmay be perforated concurrently.

From the foregoing description it is apparent that the present inventioncontemplates the mode of procedure for the making of ventilated shoeswherein the toe portion is perforated through and through, wherein oneor more layers of material may be perforated separately or may be formedof open-work, and whereby the openings of the separately perforatedlayers may be readily alined one with the other. Although in theforegoing description it has been pointed out that in order tofacilitate at least partial alinement of substantially all the openings,it is convenient to form the openings in the out-' side layer of asmaller size than the openings in the layers beneath, but it is obviousthat the openings may be formed of the same size throughout, and thealinement accomplished with more care. Moreover, in cases where it isnot particularly desired that all the openings need be alined, but thatonly some be alined, it is apparent that openings of this arrangementmay be provided.

From the foregoing description it is apparent that many modifications ofthe shoe and procedure hereinbefore described will'present themselves tothose skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of thisinvention. It is to be distinctly understood, therefore, that theinvention is not limited to the specific details of structure andprocedure described but that such modifications and the use of suchindividual features and sub-combinations of features as do not departfrom the spirit of this invention are, although not specificallydescribed herein,

contemplated by and within the scope of the appended claim.

Having thus described the invention what is claimed is:

In the art of making shoes the process comprising, attaching a vamp andvamp lining together rearwardly of the tip line and perforah ing theattached vamp and vamp lining, attaching a toe stiflener to one of saidparts in the region of the tip line so that both surfaces of the toestiffener are accessible, treating the toe stiffener in a manner such asto preliminarily soften but to subsequently stifien the same, and

lasting the shoe before the treatment is efl'ective I to stiffen the toestifiener.

CLAUDE H. DANIELS.

